‘oh, my god. i am so out of my element. i don’t have a t.v., i don’t speak french and i don’t know who any of these people are…’
we are standing outside our dressing room, which is next to the stage, talking to a young, straight-haired, blonde, american girl from indiana who is guarding the door. she is confident in a way that only young girls are. she prattles on without pause or regard or question. we stare at her and listen because she is very cute. as i drift in and out of what she is saying, i notice the way the artificial light of the deck we are standing on outside the tent shadows her arms, sleeveless in her black cocktail dress. there is a peachy fuzz covering the length of her arms and i wonder if her entire body is lichen-like as well.
‘so can i go in and get my bag, at least?’ i ask.
‘yeah, my glass of champagne is in there, too,’ ben adds.
she crosses her fuzzy arms and says,
‘they told me not to let anyone in there.’
audrey bursts through the other door that leads into the main room.
‘we need you guys onstage, NOW!’
shit, my music is in there. they told us to prepare songs for grace jones, joss stone, mick, bono, jay z, lionel ritchie (who didn’t show) and marc anthony and jlo (who just left together out the back where we were standing – marc anthony pausing to say goodbye to us, ‘take care guys, sorry we didn’t get a chance to play together. next time.’ and as he passed, looked back over his shoulder and nodded towards jlo and shrugged his shoulders as if to say, ‘she’s the boss, right?’). so i’m not sure whom they are calling us to back up, but if it’s one of those people i’m going to need the music. i go around to the other door and go in. i see my bag against the wall and grab it. she doesn’t look up. she’s just sitting there alone with her head down, drinking the belvedere and cranberry they brought in for her while we were still in the dressing room. i get to the side of the stage and am introduced to chris tucker.
‘what’s up, you guys? i’m going to need some frank, uh, best is yet to come??…..and………what a wonderful world. and what michael you know?’
ben and i look at each other and say simultaneously,
‘billie jean?’
‘yeah. that’s great…..let’s go.’
ben hands me his iphone with the changes to ‘the best is yet to come’ and i’m thinking, man that was weird. he didn’t sound like chris tucker. the chris tucker from the movies with the squeeky, high-pitched voice. he just sounded like, i don’t know, normal. like does gilbert godfrey always talk that way he talks? shouting and squinting,
‘honey, would you please get out and move megan’s tricycle so i can back up?’ or
‘just take a little off the top, billy and not too short in the back this time.’
i remember the first time is saw you bet your life, grouchos’ game show. i couldn’t believe he sounded just like the groucho from the movies. toned down, of course, and with his own moustache, but that unmistakable groucho sarcasm and smart ass. that way of talking that barbra streisand and alan alda have imitated in their comic acting. i read some of groucho’s personal letters and he writes the way he talks. in one postscript he writes,
‘by the way, did you know peter o’toole is a double phallic name?’
‘where’s my french people at? y’all got a beautiful country but why you always got to be like, eet eez not possible?’
chris tucker is being the chris tucker from his movies. he leads us through the tunes,
‘here’s a song a wrote. i think you’ll recognize it.’
and he does some bits.
‘where’s my english people at? y’all ain’t better than everybody else so just relax. ok?’
he’s a good singer and his michael is dead on. he does the moonwalk. woo-hoo. shamona. and we’re off.
backstage chris tucker finds us.
‘thanks, guys. nice job. that was fun.’
and he’s regular voice guy again. i told him i loved that french bit. that i’d been on about it since we got here. ‘le pays de non,’ i kept saying.
‘excusez-moi, monsieur, mais ou se trouve le sunset jazz club, s’il vous plait?’
‘hmm. je ne sais pas.’
it sounds like ‘jeune sais pas,’ and i think of correcting him. the ultimate insult.
‘man, these mother fuckers know where it is,’ tony says as we’re walking away.
we have stopped at literally a dozen places along the rue denis. the cab driver did not know where the club was and took us in a big circle to where rue denis begins. i said i thought it was much farther down towards the seine but he pointed to the pedestrian mall that is rue denis and said,
‘ce n’est pas possible.’
so we got out.
i looked at where the club was on the map before we left the hotel and it seemed so easy, i didn’t bother to get the address. we’ve asked ten merchants, two cops, two very nice guys who were opening up their bar – we sat and had a coffee and chatted with them. they didn’t know where it was. i went to another bar and asked these two guys. one of the guys says he works there and sends us down the wrong street in the wrong direction.
‘man, this doesn’t look right.’ tony’s been there before. ‘that dude was fucking with us.’
we see a guy with an iphone. he can’t find it. we go back to rue denis. there are a lot of sex shops. good place for a jazz club. i ask two more guys in a clothing store. non. my phone i just fucking bought for the express purpose of popping a sim card into it and using it here in a situation exactly like this one isn’t working. i will find out later when i try to return it to the shop in my neighborhood, that the phone i bought IS unlocked.
‘i only sell unlocked phones. i’m not lying.’
‘well i’m not lying either. that phone is locked in europe. and it’s not the sim card because it worked on my friend’s phone.’
‘look.’ he has taken my phone apart, replaced the french sim card with a local sim card.
‘see, it’s working. it’s not locked.’
‘you told me the phone would work in france.’
‘france? i don’t know what kind of system they have over there, but it’s working. see?’
‘dude, you TOLD me this phone-‘
‘hey! don’t dude me!! don’t you fucking dude me!!’ and the dude turns into a chubby, spikey-haired rosie perez. ‘i don’t have to take this shit from you!’ pointing his finger at me and i know this is going to go nowhere. i thought maybe he’d give me the 15 bucks i spent on the sim card and give me a different phone. that is not going to happen.
‘just give me the phone.’ and he tosses my phone in pieces across the counter and folds his arms. i put it back together and consider my options:
throw the phone at him as hard as i can,
throw the phone against the wall behind him,
come back at nite and throw the phone through the store window.
good thing that weed’s working and i don’t do anything. i hate to think what would’ve happened if i hadn’t smoked those two bong hits before i left the house.
‘man, if that’s how you roll,’ i say and start walking out.
‘yeah, that’s how i roll, papi. get the fuck out of here. you yuppiemother….’ and the door closes behind me.
‘non. si vous fumez sans tabac, vous avez le mal a la tete.’
‘i know what’ll happen if i smoke that shit without the tobacco,’ i whisper to tony, ‘i’ll fucking get high.’
i take a hit off the hash/tobacco joint anyway. it’s after the paris gig at the sunside and the bartender is smoking us out. i’m getting a headache alright - from smoking tobacco without a filter.
we found the club and had some decent thai food around the corner. played two sets to a decent size crowd (for a monday nite). one couple left because of tony’s ‘drumming style’ (a french reviewer told me he heard them muttering about it as they walked out) but the rest of the crowd was very attentive and appreciative. one woman came alone and laughed at all the jokes. i found out she was the wife of a pianist friend of mine who just happened to be in paris. i thought my patter was dying, but she explained to me that the french are kind of a stoic audience and that it takes a lot to get them to laugh. like jerry lewis. that explains it. the piano bench was on it’s own box not connected to the stage and a couple of times i nearly fell off. big laughs.
in the morning, i poke some holes in an orangina can and smoke the little chunk of hash the bartender laid on me. it seems like it’s been days since i got high, but it’s only been a little more than 24 hours since the cookie i ate on the plane. we muster in the lobby and go out to the boulevard to find a taxi. it’s an extra 15 euro to call one that will show up at the hotel so we go to the corner and catch one right away. right away after the first cab stopped, asked where we were going, saw our luggage and sped off.
the taxi driver is a big african dude. nigerian? his neck is a ring of bulges and his sportcoat is too small. we put the luggage in the trunk and ben and i sit in the back seat. tony’s opening the door to the front seat and the driver says,
‘non. ce n’est pas possible,’ sticking his thumb out and without looking at him, motioning tony to the back seat.
‘non! il n’y a pas l’espace ici,’ and i motion to the tiny space between ben and i. he pauses for a second, staring me down. before he can say anything else i sternly say,
‘non!’
i can see ben trying not to laugh out of the corner of my eye.
‘non!’ i say again motioning again to the space between us.
the driver exhales dramatically and removes his personal items from the front seat so tony can sit down. and we’re off.
‘i’m going to say hello to lenny kaye. he comes down to banjo jim’s to hear adam’s band all the time. he’ll remember me.’
tony stands up from his seat in the ultra-modern wating area outside our gate in charles de gaulle. he slips his cymbal bag around one shoulder, stops, takes the bag off his shoulder and sits back down.
‘man, fuck that. i’m not doing that.’
we board the plane and my seat is just two seats behind her. the person in front of me is having trouble with the overhead bin - trying to stuff a suitcase in there he should’ve checked - and i’m standing over patti smith. she’s flipping through a magazine.
‘ms. smith, thanks for rocking,’ i say.
‘oh? yeah…..sure.’
and i introduce myself to her and lenny saying we are the house band at the amfar event and that if she wants us to back them up on a tune to just say the word.
‘ember?’ she squints up at me.
‘amfar,’ lenny says.
‘oh…cool,’ she says. ‘it’s only one song, but if they ask us to do more, yeah, sure, that would be great.’
and i sit down next to melissa, married to bill, the older gentleman across the aisle. they are from new orleans. he was in textiles and is now retired. her family business takes used concrete and turns it into roadbed. we talk about new orleans. i ask her to name her favorite restaurants and all the ones she names, i know. and her favorite of all is mine as well, jacque-imo’s. we go on for awhile about the alligator cheesecake and the fried roast beef po’ boy. and how the maple leaf bar is right next door. about how jack tried one on the upper west side which i did patronize often but that didn’t make it. we agree he’s no emeril. and for that we are thankful.
it is a beautiful spring day as we fly over the french countryside. it’s a short flight and soon we are out over the med and landing in nice. we collect our bags and make our way over to the the car rental where i expect to encounter obstacles. my credit card is the wrong kind. we can’t find your reservation. my driver’s license is not something. i am uninsurable. but to my surprise and delight, there is no line and we get the car without incident and are zipping away in a sweet audi a3 in no time. i want to see how fast it will go but for the moment am content to whip around the roundabouts and downshift into turns.
‘you’re having fun, aren’t you, dred?’ tony says from the back seat. i smile and meet his eyes in the rear view mirror.
‘suck the cock and lick the balls,’ i sing.
i click on my inbox and see there is a message from ben. he sent it at 4am. the subject line reads,
‘i need your help in the morning.’
cryptic. he’s just in the room downstairs and i’m thinking what the fuck as i open it up.
‘dude. some guy came through the window into my room last nite and stole my wallet. i have to go to the cop station this morning before noon and file a report. can you drive me?’
i look at the clock in the top right corner of my mac - 10am. i run downstairs to ben’s room and knock on the door.
‘who is it?’
‘inspector clouseau!”
ben opens the door. he’s laughing. good sign. i go in and see a room in disarray.
‘what the hell happened?’
ben tells me how he woke up at 3am to see some dude coming through his window. he jumped out of bed. there was a struggle. he was able to shove the guy into the mirror (i notice a clump of curly, black hair stuck in some broken cracks) and get in a couple of body shots, but the dude dove out the window where an accomplice was waiting. being barefoot and there now being two of them, ben wisely did not give chase. it was only after that he realized the guy got his wallet off the table.
‘well, at least he didn’t get your iphone.’
‘no shit. that would’ve sucked way worse. it’s just a little cash and my credit cards which i cancelled immediately.’
‘did you call les cochons?’
‘yeah, they came and met me outside.’
‘they didn’t even come in? what about the dna evidence?’ i point to the cracked mirror. ’and there’s got to be some prints on the window sill.’
‘nah, they just said come in the morning and fill out a report.’
‘what about down there?’ i say pointing to the gravel below the window. ’maybe there’s a shoe print they can make a plaster cast of.’
we got to the cop station. they tell us to wait. we wait. they tell us to come back in the afternoon. this, we do not do. instead, we wander around the old city of antibes. we come across an open air market where i find some corsican sausage. i did not know the corsicans were famous for their sausage. i tried some that the pigs were only fed day old baguette and chestnuts. best ever. we come across a guy selling lp’s and i buy a nino rota record. we walk back to the car along the sea atop the walled city and it is just beautiful.
‘all right. who’s gonna bid 50 grand to hear patti smith sing my favorite song, because the nite?’ harvey weinstein sounds a little like harvey fierstein. earlier at the soundcheck he brought marc anthony in to hear us. we played the montuno from his hit song, i need to know. harvey stopped us and said,
‘guys, meet marc anthony.’
we all waved from the stage.
‘no, guys. come down here and meet marc anthony.’
and so we jumped down from the stage and met marc anthony.
‘hey guys. how you doing?’
‘great. great. how about you?’
‘awe, man, i’m fried. you know….kids. and i have a big kid to take care of too, you know?’
and we all laughed like we knew what it must be like to be married to jlo.
‘so where you guys from?’
‘we all live in brooklyn.’
‘brooklyn?!! get the fuck out of here! brooklyn? all right!!’ and he started giving us the cool bro hand shake with the half hug. wow. super nice cat.
‘you guys read?’ he asks us.
‘yeah, yeah. sure. no problem.’
‘cool. i’ll have them fax you the arrangement. there’s not much to it, so those little parts are important, you know?’
‘yeah. totally. cool.’
‘i got to play that one, you know?….it’s like my suit.’
‘hell yeah,’ i say. ’if i had a suit that shot money out of it like that one, i’d never take it off.’
‘exactly,’ marc anthony says. ‘we’ll see you guys later. thanks, harvey.’
‘yeah. nice to meet you. thanks harvey,’ we say.
patti smith steps up to the mic.
‘if it was a man who bid the 50,000 euro, i’ll see you in the men’s room later. and if it was a woman, i’ll see you in the ladies’ room later.’
and patti and lenny launch into because the nite. it ‘s awesome. the first song they played, the people have the power moved me to tears. no shit. i spent some years being involved in marxist, collective theater in san francisco (sfmt.org) and the power of the people has always been an awe inspiring thing to me. i couldn’t believe the intensity of their performance. raw, visceral and political. a dramatic song may be the most powerful medium of expression. it had a sense of truth that was undeniable to me. it blew me away. just her and lenny. i told him so after they came off.
‘man. that was unbelievably moving.’
he noticed my teary eye.
‘man, thanks a lot. wow. that’s really nice of you to say.’
‘i’m not bullshitting you! i was totally blind sided by the emotion you guys put out.’
‘oh man, i’m just trying to rock, you know?’
‘yeah, well, mission accomplished.’
‘haha. thanks. now i can drink. where’s the bar?’
and off he went. he would later tell us this is the fanciest party he’s ever been to and that he couldn’t wait to get back to the lower east side - to something he could understand. i hope i run into lenny again. he is the coolest.
the nite winds down. mary k. bilge comes out of our dressing room and sings two numbers to tracks. her first words on stage,
‘i know you’d get on your feet if bono was here, so get on your feet for me.’
yeah, bono – rock ‘n’ roll legend and world famous humanitarian……and her. i think the comparison is apt.
during her first song i am entertained by watching grace jones at a nearby table grind her ass into the crotch of her young white boy date (she looks amazing – what is she like 60?) and by my close proximity to jean luc goddard who sat with them with his wife looking non-plussed all evening.
russel crowe auctions off a fighter jet flight that he jokingly says will be armed with missiles that the winner can use to blow up anyone they like and some model auctions off a photo shoot with karl lagerfeld that goes for 600,000 euro. and michell phillips is really cute.
there’s some buzzing at the side of the stage. it looks like the guy they are calling the fastest violinist in the world might go up and play to some tracks he brought with him. we met him earlier in the first dressing room we were assigned. one with patti and lenny and david. he gave us all a little concert and he is amazing. fast and clean and his playing sings in that way that the profoundly gifted just take for granted. he and patti got into a conversation about pagganini. i interrupted and asked him,
‘do you know the devil went down to georgia?’
‘everybody always asks me that!’ he exclaims. ‘that’s like charlie daniels, right? man it’s crazy how often i get that.’
a perfect comedic beat goes by and ben says,
‘so…..do you know it?’
and i feel a special pride. ben would not have said something so sarcastic when i met him some 15 years ago and i can’t help but feeling my smart ass ways have rubbed off on him. everyone laughed and david said, laughing as well,
‘no. but i’m going to learn it tomorrow!’
it doesn’t look like david is going to get to play. turns out we know all the guys in his stateside band and he tells us he would’ve preferred to play with us live, but that he didn’t know we would be here.
‘so, it looks like you’re not going to get to play,’ i say. ‘bummer.’
‘oh man, it’s cool. i just want to do my part and support the cause and if that means not playing, that’s fine.’
wow. very talented dude wih his head on straight. andy comes up to us.
‘so, harvey wants you guys to do another song with patti. cool?’’
‘yeah! that would be awesome.’ and we go up to the stage. someone has bid 200,000 euro to hear patti do a song with the band. she grabs the mic and bellows,
‘sure for another 200,000 euro we’ll do another fucking song!’ and the crowd goes wild.
lenny gets on the guitar and leads us through gloria. i forgot there was so much to it. it starts slow. gets faster. ha a bunch of hits. lenny tells us before hand,
‘it’s e to d for a really long time. then e-a-d. just watch me.’
and we do and we kill. unbelievable. top ten highlights of my life. unbelievable.
after, we are hugging each other as we walk off the stage and here comes mary k. bilge. earlier, andy had asked me if i knew stairway to heaven and i said of course, but i didn’t imagine it would be with her. it’s cool. i’ve got steve elliot. we can deal.
the battle of the bilge.
she begins,’there’s a lady who’s sure…’ and it’s not in the original key. she says into the mic, ‘i need it in this key.’ and steve is right there. d minor. it could’ve been worse. he’s backing her up nicely when she turns and cuts him off. next verse we sneak back in and she cuts us off again. we get to the next part,’and it makes me wonder’ and we creep in again. and again she cuts us off. this time saying into the mic,
‘i’m sorry, but i just can’t do this with the band.’
and she continues a capella, turning the song into a melismatic ocean of filigree. i look to the side of the stage and her husband/manager catches my eye. he’s yelling at me to play.
‘you play!! just you and nobody else!!’ he’s jabbing his finger at me and sweating profusely. he has a bright red sport jacket on and a bowler hat. mr. bilge.
i look at him, point at her and shrug my shoulders, folding my arms across my chest.
he is still screaming but i ignore him. the guitar solo heading into the last section (‘and as we wind on down the road…’) comes up. i look at tony and nod my head. he plays a great fill and we are all in playing those last three chords that are the last section. she stops us again. it’s a joke. she does a long,
‘woo-woo-woo-ooo and she’s b;uy-i-i-i-i-i-i-ing……..a…..staaaaaaaaaaaaaarrway-ay-ay-ay-ooo-oo-yeah whoah oh no yeah stairway-oh-way-oh-way-no……..to…….heavennnnnnnnnnn.’
there is a smattering of applause. the guests had begun to leave after the patti smith number, making their way down the hill to the after party at the eden roc. mary k. bilge says into the mic,
‘if these people were not my friends i would’ve never put myself through that!
and we’re off.
after, i’m talking to andy over a drink. he works very hard to put all this together. i feel bad the last tune was a train wreck.
‘what could i have done differently?’ i ask him and myself.
‘i don’t know but that patti smith shit was killing!’ he says raising his glass.
oh man. it sure was.